In the universe of makeup for mature skin, concealers often occupy an ambiguous space: essential for many women, yet also responsible for some of the most common mistakes that age the face instead of rejuvenating it. On this point, makeup artist Bárbara Martos emphasizes with a direct warning: “You’ve been using concealer the wrong way for years and no one had told you.”
Her approach moves away from the classic application focused solely on the under-eye. Martos proposes understanding concealer as a strategic light tool, capable of redefining features, bringing freshness, and visually lifting the face when applied at specific points. According to the expert, there are six key zones where concealer can make a before-and-after difference, especially on skin aged forty and above.
The six zones where concealer is key:
- The first is the brow contour, both above and below. Applied precisely, this gesture frames the gaze, enhances the natural arch of the brow, and creates an immediate lifting effect.
- The second area are the sides of the nose, around the nostrils. In this area, concealer helps neutralize redness and small discolorations, unifying the tone in a zone where rubbing and pigment changes tend to accumulate over time.
- The third key area is the perioral zone: the outer corners of the lips and the Cupid’s bow. Here, concealer acts as an “optical eraser” for small expression lines and, at the same time, provides visual volume to the lips. When well applied, it can optically lift the drooping corner and redefine the lip contour without resorting to more invasive techniques.
- The fourth point is the center of the chin. Bárbara Martos defines it as a natural light focal point. Applied subtly, this spot brings brightness to the lower third of the face, restoring freshness and balance, especially valuable on mature skin where the loss of light is one of the most evident signs of aging.
- The fifth move sits on the bridge of the nose, but with a very precise instruction: it should not be applied vertically, but horizontally. This nuance completely changes the visual effect, as it helps harmonize the face without lengthening it excessively, providing a subtle and elegant light point.
- Finally, the sixth zone is the outer corners of the eyes. Here, concealer not only corrects but also brightens and “opens” the gaze, creating an immediate resting effect. It is also one of the areas where, according to the makeup artist, the product can offer a slight treatment benefit if the right formula is chosen.
Recommended products you can use
Touche Éclat Radiance Illuminator by Yves Saint Laurent
It has a lightweight water-based and silicone formula that glides easily over the skin to correct imperfections and diffuse shadowed areas. It provides a luminous finish that revitalizes the face without caking or emphasizing texture. Its illuminating effect helps to highlight the key features of the face in a natural way. Suitable for all skin types and for daily use as a concealer.
L’Oréal Paris Lumi Glotion Illuminating Formula, Medium Tone
A luminosity booster with a natural glow finish that moisturizes and refreshes the skin. Its light texture allows it to be used alone, before foundation for a juicy effect, or as a strategic highlighter after makeup. Suitable for sensitive skin and dermatologist-tested, it adapts to different uses depending on the desired level of shine. Available in Medium tone for a warm, even result.
e.l.f. Cosmetics Halo Glow Liquid Filter
Hybrid between makeup and skincare that delivers a luminous “filters” effect with a juicy and natural finish. Can be worn alone, mixed with foundation, or as a highlighter on key points of the face, with 8 adaptable shades. Enriched with hyaluronic acid and squalane, it hydrates while smoothing pores and fine lines. Vegan and cruelty-free formula for a soft, even glow.
Sensilis Skin Glow Pearl
Liquid highlighter with a pearly finish that delivers immediate light and a radiant skin effect. Its fluid texture blends easily into foundation or can be applied to strategic points on the face to enhance volumes. Provides an elegant and sophisticated glow without highlighting skin texture. Ideal for achieving a natural luminous finish on all skin types.
Liquid Highlighter in Stick Radiant Touch Creamy by KIKO Milano
A creamy-stick highlighter that delivers a radiant and buildable finish. Enriched with jojoba oil and mother-of-pearl, it blends easily with the skin to create precise, natural light points. The stick format allows for comfortable application and easy blending to sculpt features. Dermatologically and ophthalmologically tested, non-comedogenic and suitable for all skin types.
Common mistakes: tips to avoid them
Beyond placement, Martos stresses that the big mistake lies less in the product than in the technique. “If your concealer marks the under-eye area, it’s not the under-eye itself; it’s how you apply it,” she states. Her advice is clear: never drag the product. Instead, apply it in soft taps, with a precision brush or with your finger, blending without friction to prevent it from settling into expression lines.
Blending is key, especially on more mature skin where texture can make any excess product evident. The idea is that the concealer should not read as makeup, but as natural light. Another fundamental point she addresses is tone selection. Martos has just launched her own beauty collection, BMB, with the aim of simplifying the routine and enhancing natural beauty and each woman’s features.
She argues that concealers can be considered “universal” within a two-tone logic: one lighter and one darker. The lighter is used to illuminate, while the darker corrects and adapts better to the skin. In her own routine, she alternates both according to the season: one lighter in winter and the other darker in summer, sometimes mixing them to achieve a more natural finish.
That said, she warns of a common mistake: choosing a shade that is too light with the intention of brightening. This move, instead of rejuvenating, can create an artificial pale effect that hardens the features and reduces naturalness on the face.
The final step she recommends is optional but important: setting with powder. Always in a minimal amount, just a light veil, to prevent product from piling up in expression lines and losing its second-skin effect.
Concealer, a tool for facial architecture
With this approach, concealer stops being mere camouflage and becomes a tool for facial architecture. A technique that, according to Bárbara Martos, not only corrects but also illuminates, lifts, and rejuvenates the face with minimal yet strategic gestures.
Martos centers her approach on strategic points and a refined application technique, aligning with a trend increasingly present in the beauty sector: makeup that supports the skin rather than transforming it. In that balance between precision and naturalness lies, precisely, the key to a gesture as everyday as it is revelatory.
