By now you’ve likely come across the flood of Milkbar and Taco Bell promotion, but just in case you missed it, here’s a quick rewind. Milkbar is the celebrated bakery founded by pastry chef Christina Tosi, with shops in New York and Los Angeles, and these days it’s widely recognized for its signature birthday cakes. So, with this latest Milkbar x Taco Bell drop, it’s hardly surprising that a birthday-cake theme takes center stage.
Our Official Assessment
Pros — In all honesty, we came away feeling quite impressed with this release. It’s playful and inherently whimsical thanks to the pink glaze and the rainbow sprinkles, and it also delivers on flavor. The filling isn’t aggressively sweet, yet it remains rich and creamy with a distinct cake-batter note.
But to put it plainly, the empanada crust is the true standout. It arrived hot and freshly fried, far from any staleness I feared, and achieves an ideal mix of crispiness and chew. The outer rim crunch is notably sharp, while the center holds a satisfying bite that doesn’t crumble away after a single mouthful. There’s actually something to savor here. The dough’s character also introduces a savory edge that keeps sweetness from taking over the whole bite.
The glaze adds a subtle complement as well. Though labeled a pink glaze, it carries a hint of fruitiness. It introduces a touch of acidity that helps balance the overall profile and keeps the flavors from leaning too sweet. Perhaps the most striking aspect is the generous sprinkle coating. Milkbar’s unapologetic nod to nostalgia is one of the brand’s charms, and seeing that spirit reflected in this collab brought us a smile.
Cons — If you’re not a fan of artificial cake-batter flavors, this may not be your cup of tea. The filling is pleasant, but it does carry that classic artificial-tan scent and taste that some people dislike. For us, it felt nostalgic and endearing, yet we can easily imagine others preferring a different flavor profile.
Otherwise, the only real gripe we have about the empanada is its price point. It’s pricey, and the portion is surprisingly small compared to what one might expect. Given Taco Bell’s usual value proposition, it was surprising to find that this item yields perhaps five or six bites at most.
